Victim 2: Fashion Fuse

conscience |ˈkänCHəns|

noun

an inner feeling or voice viewed as acting as a guide to the rightness or wrongness of one's behavior: she had a guilty conscience about her desires to look good | Deborah was suffering a pang of conscience.

This is my favorite summer music festival top. It is made out of really light cotton so it is very cool on those hot days and SO cute with my favorite twirly skirts. I don't remember where I bought it, probably at a festival or second hand shop. After going through all my clothing on Monday I put this top back in the closet. Yesterday I wore it for about 5 minutes until I realized that since it had a label I should probably look up the brand and clear my conscience or put it on the burn pile where it belongs

This is all I had to go on:

I did some Googling and finally found their website:

http://www.fashionfuse.net/home.html

As I looked through their clothing for sale my heart skipped a beat. I  love every single item they sell. My shopping addiction started to drum loudly in my soul. 

WAN'T WAN'T WAN'T!!!!

I started getting excited about all the clothing I could buy from them IF they use ethical labor so I wasted no time in sending them this email:

Hello!

I am a big fan of your clothing. Since the collapse of Rana Plaza in Bangladesh I have committed myself to wearing and buying only ethically made clothing. I have a few of your items and I was unable to find anything on the internet about your business practices. Can you tell me where your clothes are made and under what conditions? My top says "Made in India". I attached a photo. I would appreciate your response otherwise I will have to burn it.

Thank you!

Deborah Norton

I got a reply in about 10 minutes. I was really happy and excited to see they were quick to respond to such an important issue in their industry. Then I read the email:

Hi,

All of our clothes are Made in India. 

All of our suppliers are factory compliant and are up to code. 

Thanks

Fashion Fuse, Inc.

8 Caesar Place

Moonachie, NJ 07074

Tel: 201-438-8102

Fax: 201-484-8575

Um.....ok.....and who are you?  There was no name, no expression of concern for what had happened, just a brief and cold reply. I sent this back immediately:

I appreciate your prompt reply but what does that mean? Can you take some time to fill me in with more detail? You are not listed as Fair Trade and are not on any lists of ethical clothing brands. What factory do you buy your clothing from in India? I need more than this reply. You didn't even sign your name.

Best, 

Deborah Norton

It's been 24 hours and no reply...

As I tossed my beautiful festival top on the burn pile I was wistful. All the clothes on the Fashion Fuse site are beautiful and totally ME and I wish I could buy ALL of them. But something inside of me has snapped. I know I can never go back to wearing "blood clothing" again. It feels like the day I found out the LDS church was promoting and funding anti-gay marriage legislation in California. That day I knew that although I had loved my religion and lived it devoutly for 7 years, I could no longer associate with my church again. It was a clean break and I have never regretted it once. My entire life turned upside down due to that decision and I ended up divorced, working for minimum wage and struggling to put food on the table for my kids. I could have stayed in the church with my successful husband and lived in comfort for the rest of my life without having to work another day. 

I have never regretted that decision once.  Compared to that decision this one is cake.  I still have beautiful clothing in my closet and this decision will certainly not end my relationship or harm me financially. 

And while I took the time to agonize over 1 silly top, the death toll at Rana Plaza has surpassed 1100.  

How the Other Half Lives

"When the summer heats come with their suffering they have meaning more terrible than words can tell. Come over here. Step carefully over this baby--it is a baby, spite of its rags and dirt--under these iron bridges called fire-escapes, but loaded down, despite the incessant watchfulness of the firemen, with broken household goods, with wash-tubs and barrels, over which no man could climb from a fire. This gap between dingy brick-walls is the yard. That strip of smoke-colored sky up there is the heaven of these people. Do you wonder the name does not attract them to the churches? That baby's parents live in the rear tenement here. She is at least as clean as the steps we are now climbing. There are plenty of houses with half a hundred such in. The tenement is much like the one in front we just left, only fouler, closer, darker--we will not say more cheerless. The word is a mockery. A hundred thousand people lived in rear tenements in New York last year." 

How the Other Half Lives: Studies among the Tenements of New York, Jacob A. Riis (1890)


I read "How the Other Half Lives" in college and it is why I decided to major in history.  It is a photo journal documenting the lives of the poor, as they lived in the tenements and worked in the sweatshops of New York City at the turn of the century.  It is a time in our history that we are not proud of.  People lived in abject poverty in disgusting and unsafe conditions and worked their lives away in factories.  

Sound familiar?


The words and images that Jacob Riis planted in my brain have haunted me ever since. Every time I buy something that I know was probably made under unethical conditions a bell goes off in my head.  I usually ignore it.  I have even made jokes about it to my friends.  


"How can this possibly only cost $15?"  


"It was probably made in a sweat shop in a 3rd world country by a 10 year old, that is why!"


But even through the nervous laughter I would see the images in my head, like these:

http://thesocietypages.org/socimages/2009/12/03/child-labor-in-america-1908-1912/

http://hgreerecs.wordpress.com/2012/11/27/jacob-riis-how-the-other-half-lives/

http://nosignposts.blogspot.com/2011/07/sustainable-style-introduction.html

I may have thought about the small hands that made my precious garment once or twice post purchase.  After a while it would just blend in with the sea of other items that I could not live without.  After all, what were my options?  

"I don't make a ton of money and have two teenagers to feed so if I don't buy my clothes at Target how will I get by?"

"I work so hard and I just want to look pretty, is that so much to ask?  It's not like I spent $100 on it.  It was only $15!  Who cares that I also bought about 8 other items for $15, it was such a deal!"

This is the conversation I have been having in my head for years.  Until Rana Plaza.  Now that I have the burn pile the obvious answer totally walloped me.

"What if you had LESS clothing?"

Today someone remarked after reading my earlier post, "Who has 75 lbs. of clothing?"

Ouch.  Yea, I do, because for some reason I didn't think I could get by without them.  Because somewhere in the blur of television commercials, images and non-stop product endorsements I figured out that I constantly need new clothes in order to be awesome.  And what American doesn't want to be awesome?

It only took me about five minutes on Google to find the modern day versions of the photo's above.  

http://nazifahmed.wordpress.com/

http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/green-living-blog/2011/nov/01/campaigning-ethical-fashion-industry

http://dulich.chudu24.com/tin-tuc-moi/14274/growing-pain-of-child-labor-in-vietnam.html

I have received a lot of feedback regarding this project in the last day or so. One argument I have heard is that we should allow 3rd world countries their opportunity to have their own Industrial Revolution. That we should just let them "work it out". Eventually they will start unions and begin the long fight for fair working conditions so we should "get out of their way" and let progress fight its own battle. I don't accept that argument.  We are all on this planet together and it is time we stopped thinking in terms of "Us and Them".  We have learned through the suffering of our own people that these conditions are unacceptable. We have the knowledge and understanding of how to make things better and yet we insists on getting cheap labor wherever we can get it so we can make more money. We the consumers insist on paying $10 for something we know full well was made by a 10 year old because it is "such a good deal"  We read books like "How the Other Half Lives" in college and then sell them back to the bookstore without another thought. But huge corporations like Walmart, with billions of dollars of profit, refuse to be a part of the solution for their workers. Instead they focus on their bottom line and they treat these precious human beings like they are worthless. The cheaper they can get their clothes made the more profit and for what? They will never spend all that money in their lifetime, why not send a few million to the victims at Rana Plaza? So far only two Western brands have committed to helping the victims. 

The UK clothing chain Primark issued this statement:

"We are fully aware of our responsibility. We urge these other retailers to come forward and offer assistance," said the retailer." 

Primark has committed to provide "long term aid" to the children whose parents died in the collapse. Canadian retailer Loblaw has also acknowledged that it sold clothing made at Rana Plaza and has committed to helping the victims.

“Our priorities are helping the victims and their families, and driving change to help prevent similar incidents in the future."

http://rt.com/news/bangladesh-collapse-compensate-retailers-613/

I am encouraged to read this but it is just a drop in the bucket of the sort of aid these families will need to repair their lives. And what about the 1000+ confirmed dead? Nothing will ever bring those people back to life. Most of them were young women. They had been evacuated from the building the day before because cracks were forming in the walls of the building. But the next morning they were all ordered back to work with threats of losing their jobs if they failed to show up. These people were forced back to work in that building.  In my mind this was nothing more than a forced extermination.  

And what about retailers in the good ole USA?  Many have issued statements that although they have sold clothing made in Rana Plaza in the past, they were not currently making anything for them during the collapse. The Children's Place and Walmart and many others have tried to deflect blame. There is proof that the clothing produced at Rana Plaza was made for New Wave Style, New Wave Bottoms and Ether Tex, who's leading buyers are Walmart, Benetton, Mango, Primark and The Children's Place. I am confident more American brands will be named. I hope they know that the whole world in watching and waiting for them to do the right thing.

Where the similarities end...

Today I was startled by this picture of friends and family desperately searching for their loved ones at Rana Plaza:

I felt like I had seen it somewhere before and then I remembered 911. I remembered all the photos, taped to anything and everything all over NYC in the aftermath of the tragedy. All those photos are now part of the museum at Ground Zero. I saw them myself on a very emotional trip I took to NYC a few years ago. It was life-changing experience, to put faces to the the huge list of names. The death toll from Rana Plaza has now surpassed 900. They died in much the same way that the victims of 911 did. Thousands of tons of concrete and metal in a twisted pile of death.  

We started a war over 911. We took vengeance for what was done to our people. We hold the victims up as heros and indeed they truly are. I wonder what will happen in Bangladesh.  Will the dead be honored by a million dollar memorial?  Or will another flimsy building be put back in its place to turn out more clothing for WalMart, Target, Old Navy, Gap......too many to name...

Ground Zero

Rana Plaza

When I started this project I had no idea how horrific this journey would be.  It is overwhelming; the photos, the faces, the broken bodies, broken hearts, broken lives.  I feel so helpless.  This whole project is such a lame attempt to help but at least it is something I can do.  Maybe enough people will be touched by this tragedy and start to make some real changes.  We are to blame for this.  We are the consumer driven economy that has led to greed which led to desperation and wasted lives.  All this so we can look good.  I just can't reconcile it in my head.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-19553250

http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2013/apr/25/bangladesh-building-collapse-voices-rubble

https://worldnewsnetwork7.com/world/us/2013/04/17/weve-been-hit-at-home-before/

The Burn Pile

Last night I completed the task of going through my entire wardrobe.  The burn pile is massive.  So far all I have left in my closet are items I bought fair trade or from small markets in Thailand and Bali.  I have not decided yet whether or not those will stay in the closet.  I am grappling with my ethics pretty intensely.  On one hand, at least I bought the items in the country they were made but on the other hand, I have no way of knowing the conditions under which they were made.  For now they will stay in the closet.

In all there are about 75 pounds of clothing on the burn pile. I decided that all my undergarments had to go. I have 1 pair of socks that I bought locally that I held on to but I will be going to the shop and asking them about their sources. It is fortunate for me that I decided to do this in the Spring or else I would be freezing my ass off. No underwear, no socks, no bras, no undershirts. I am free and loose! I am not sure where I will procure these items in the future but at least it's not 30 degrees outside!  Also gone are all of my coats and jackets. I am down to my hand made crochet ponchos that I make for fun. However, they got me started thinking about the yarn industry. I bought all that yarn at Joann Fabric so their fate is still uncertain.

It is amazing the thoughts that go through your head when you are touching and evaluating every item of clothing you own. All that I have left is hanging in my closet. My large dresser is completely empty. My first thought was how much less laundry I will have to fold. Then as I looked at the remaining items I realized that almost everything I love most is still in my closet. These are the items I paid serious money for at Fair Trade shops or from local markets. But I realized that I hardly ever wear any of it. I save these items for concerts or other events where I will be around people. I don't ever just wear them for myself. Next I went through my laundry bin and pulled out everything that is mine. I noticed 2 items that I will be keeping and I immediately separated them from the other laundry. My thought was that I should wash them on delicate because they need to last for a really long time. I have never used the delicate cycle in my life.

And while I was doing all this another 8 people died in another fire in Bangladesh. The death toll from the collapse at Rana Plaza is over 900.

By Rosemary Feurer | Published April 29, 2013 

http://www.usatoday.com/story/news/world/2013/05/09/bangladesh-factory-collapse-death-toll/2146063/

http://www.ibtimes.com/building-collapse-dhaka-bangladesh-kills-over-80-scores-injured-many-others-feared-trapped-debris#

Victim 1: My Death Dress

This dress is my Death Dress.  I bought it they day my Mother died to wear to her funeral.  It seemed like an appropriate place to start this journey.  My Mom was a treasure to this world.  She never had a bad thing to say about anyone.  Her smile was huge and her heart was endless.  She left this earth much too soon and I will never get over it.  I miss her every day and every time I wear this beautiful dress I think of her and give her a special twirl.  She would have loved the ruffles and the colors.  It looks absolutely fabulous on me, at any weight.  I will miss it very much.

I purchased this dress at Target.  All that I know about it is what is on this tag.  I was able to dig up this investigative report on the factories that Target uses in China. The report names Target, GAP, American Eagle Outfitters, J.Crew and Talbots and is titled, "Excessive Overtime, Student Workers, and Exploitative Wage Systems", November 30, 2011 by China Labor Watch

http://digitalcommons.ilr.cornell.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2167&context=globaldocs

"CLW investigators uncovered between twenty and thirty student workers currently employed at the Ningbo factory. A majority of them work in the boxing and assembly workshops. The youngest student worker was found to be 16 years old (born in February, 1995), and had only just graduated from middle school. The oldest of the student workers was 21 years old. He told investigators he will begin his sophomore year of college in the fall. The parents of these student workers were also working at the factory and were the ones that had originally gotten their children the job. Student workers work the same amount of hours and have the same responsibilities as adult employees. However, they receive a significantly lower salary. Students are paid 45 RMB (US $7) for an eight hour shift or 6 RMB per hour (US $0.94). Student workers receive an hourly overtime wage of 6.6 RMB (US $1). On average, student workers are required to work between 3 and 4 hours of overtime per day. Student are required to work on Saturdays and Sundays. The factory does not require student workers to sign a labor contract and does not offer them any social insurance 10 benefits. These student workers told investigators they are often left exhausted by the amount of hours they work."

"Workers at the Ningbo Hesheng factory only earn 45 RMB (US $7) for every 8 hours of work or 5.6 RMB per hour (US $.87) Workers get paid an additional 6.6 RMB (US $1) per hour during overtime hours. Therefore, the investigators concluded that a worker at the Hesheng factory makes less than the township hourly minimum wage."

That youngest student worker is the same age as my son, born in the same year. My son spends most of his time playing video games, playing his guitar and riding his skateboard.  He has no idea what the real world is all about because he doesn't have to yet.  He is a child, doing childish things.  But these children in China already know all about what real life has to offer them.  I just had a conversation with my son today about how he is has everything going for him.  He is American, white, male, smart, good looking and personable.  The entire world is his.  He has no idea that other kids his age on the other side of the planet have no choices, no options, no hope for much more than long grueling days at a sewing machine, or loading boxes, for less than the township hourly minimum wage.

And so I dedicate my Death Dress to these kids in China and I thank them from the bottom of my heart for making me such a beautiful dress to wear on the most painful day of my life. 

Slaves to Fashion

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424127887323789704578444280661545310.html

I could have chosen a more horrific image to begin this story, but there is just something about this girl's face that I simply cannot look away from.  Here, caught on film, is her rescue from a gruesome end, and yet her look is resigned.  

It seems to say, "oh well, another day in hell, what is the difference?".

I hope that whoever is reading this know's about this picture, where it was taken, what happened that day at Rana Plaza in Bangladesh. I hope we have at least come that far.  But it is a strong possibility that many Americans are not aware that over 800 (and counting) ordinary people went to work one day and died, all at once.  The story is so horrific that it is hard to process.  That outfit you are wearing today, that you bought somewhere you probably forgot by now, might have been made by this girl's hands, or the hands that lay, severed from their owner's bodies, in the stinking and rotting pile they are yet to be dug out of.

This is real stuff.  Real lives shattered.  Real suffering.  A couple weeks ago 3 people died in the Boston Marathon and it was a national tragedy.  Indeed it was. But what about all those people on the other side of the world who are literally your slaves to fashion.  Your slaves and my slaves.

This blog will document my personal process of literally cleaning out my closet for the good of humanity.  One by one I will be examining every item of clothing I own, documenting where it was made and by whom.  Once this process is complete, everything that I own that was potentially made at the cost of human blood, will be burned in their honor.  I know it's really silly isn't it?  Why shouldn't I give them all away, why such waste?  My answer to that is simple; my wardrobe has defined me for my entire life.  Everything I wear I treasure.  I can tell you where I bought it and many stories about where I was and what I was doing when I wore it.  My history can be told through my clothing.  Just as these people's history is being told through my clothing.  It is the only thing I have to offer them.  This is my sacrifice, my honor to them.  May they rest in peace.